An appreciation of Faroese language, literature and landscape

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Faroe - New York Times 'Not to miss in 2015'

The New York Times named the Faroe Islands as one the Places to Go in 2015. Because of the beautiful, unspoiled landscapes? Not exactly. What about the turf-roofed houses and quaint seaside villages straddling steep green hillsides? Not quite. For food? . . .

Cuisines from the Faroe Islands, Iceland and Scotland may have suffered in the past, watching as their great bounty of seafood was shipped to foreign lands. But recently, talented chefs from these countries have been sticking around, making the most of what their homelands have to offer, from both the sea and the land. Scotland is perhaps more well known for this right now. Anthony Bourdain visited Edinburgh, in No Reservations, to prove once and for all that Scotland isn't just haggis, fish and chips, and deep fried Mars Bars.

Nordic cuisine has been in a revival over the past decade and Torshavn is the far-away, misty, isolated hot-spot of this new cuisine. People drawn to the Faroe Islands for their cuisine will be in for a surprise, but hopefully they will get a chance to explore beyond the capital of Torshavn, where the food isn't so new-new-new Nordic. Luckily for them, the Faroes is a synch to get around, and day trips from the bustling capital are plentiful.

Here are a few suggestions to make the most of a trip to the Faroe Islands:
  • Keep the umbrella at home and invest in a waterproof jacket with a hood if you don't already have one. In fact, bring waterproof pants and boots, too.
  • Don't have expectations of the weather. The mist and fog (and wind!) of the Faroes is part of the experience. It's this subtle give and take of light that provides the Faroes with so much expression. 
  • Faroe is easy to get around, especially with a car, but travellers often miss utilizing one the Faroes' greatest offering - the helicopter. Helicopters provide services to some remote islands and settlements. It's surprisingly inexpensive, but book ahead and don't be surprised if the weather doesn't cooperate.
  • Take the ferry to Mykines (pronounced Mit-chee-nes), but bring a spare plastic bag. This route travels across open sea, which means big waves and seasick passengers lining up to throw-up in the bathrooms...if they can make it. This is one of the best islands to visit, but if you can't handle the boat ride back, take the helicopter. 
  • If you have one hike in you, go to the lighthouse at the northern tip of Kalsoy. This will bring you into the mountainous Northern Islands (Norðoyggjar). Take the short ferry from Klaksvik to Kalsoy, then drive below some of the most beautiful mountains Faroe has to offer, in and out of five narrow tunnels, before arriving at a red gate at the foot of a mountain. The hike to the lighthouse, Kallur, provides sweeping views of four of the Faroes most mountainous islands, including a view of the steep cliff, Enniberg on Viðoy, and Slættaratindur on Eysturoy.

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